Fall 2007 Fashion Buyer's VIew
New York Designers Show a Sophisticated, Sellable Season
Mar 11, 2007
"Last season was more intellectually challenging," Netaporter.com founder Nathalie Massenet recently told WWD. "We're getting excited about the product. It's stuff we all want to wear. Everything was eye candy." Opaque tights, metallics, hats, furs, and layers only added to the excitement. "What looks new in New York when ubiquitous cropped jackets, deflated volume skirts, shiny black tights and black patent pumps are available at every price point?" asks Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue's vice president and women's fashion director. "Dressing up!"
The key trends included layers, tights, sweater dressing, metallics, fur, slouchy/chic pants, and a leaner, more sophisticated silhouette. The most influential and/or buzzed about collections were Marc Jacobs, Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Doo.Ri, and newcomer Chris Benz.
Regardless of what appears in glossy magazines, it’s buyers who have the final word on what actually makes it to the selling floor. Here are some opinions from the bigger buyers on the most important trends & collections:
JULIE GILHART, BARNEYS NEW YORK
Key Trends: "I loved all the new knitwear, from oversized cardigans to sweater dresses. The longer, leaner silhouette balanced with fuller cocoon shapes is superchic. You can really feel the influence of the upcoming Costume Institute's exhibit on Poiret in the air."
Key Collections: "Isabel Toledo's collection for Anne Klein was a great debut. Rodarte was brilliantly imaginative. Narciso Rodriguez and Proenza Schouler looked very strong. Both Doo.Ri and Thakoon have come into their own, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, too. Presentations from Isabel Tonchi, Lutz + Patmos and Alexander Wang were all great. Edun looked very cool in a performance at The Box."
MICHAEL FINK, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
Key Trends: "Dramatically shaped jackets and coats with lantern sleeves, rounded shoulders or voluminous backs paired with slimmer pants, pencil skirts or body-conscious dresses. Burnished gold and copper metallic accents for daytime, lurex-shot tweeds, pailette or sequin underpinnings often veiled under black chiffon. Also, chunky, clunky stitch knits ranging in shape from bolero-like peacoats to ankle-grazing cardigan coats. Feminine pleating and smocking details and feather trims, which add just the right amount of tongue-in-cheek chic to an overly serious palette of black, gray and chocolate. Pumps and the bootie-pump are the only shoes to own."
Key Collections: "Highlights include the simplicity of great American sportswear at Marc Jacobs, a Connecticut-eccentric attitude at Michael Kors, clean-line tailoring and va-voom dresses at Zac Posen, the oddly hypnotic onion-dome hems at Vera Wang, any black dress at Ralph Lauren and the coolest, geekiest girls at Chris Benz."
LINDA FARGO, BERGDORF GOODMAN
Key Trends: "A leaner, longer narrow silhouette, men's wear, knit dressing, shine, fur, fur, fur, fur. What's interesting is the innovative ways it is being used. Isaac [Mizrahi] used it as the hem of a skirt as though it was a slip peeking out of the bottom of a skirt, and Oscar used it peeking out as though it was a blouse."
Key Collections: "Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Thakoon, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan."
ANN WATSON, HENRI BENDEL "We're excited about the opaque leg, moving away from the legging and into tights."
Key Trends:
Key Collections: "Jovovich-Hawk, Josh Goot, Alexander Wang, Doo.Ri, Rag & Bone and Chaiken" and her new discovery, the much buzzed about Chris Benz.
KEN DOWNING, NEIMAN MARCUS
Key Trends: "A return to more of a polished look, the introduction of the modern suit. We were pleased with the continuation of metallics. The dress continues to be very strong; it's looking newest as a dress and coat combo. The sequin is the embellishment of the season as well as feathers and fur trim."
Key Collections: "Marc Jacobs, for having his finger on the pulse of fashion; Proenza Schouler for a polished look and just a hint of Art Deco; Oscar de la Renta for a superchic, superluxe collection; Phillip Lim, for a contemporary point of view, and Doo.Ri, for her use of jersey and her color sense."
NATHALIE MASSENET, NET-A-PORTER.com
Key Trends: "We're loving the return to chic and pretty and elegant."
Key Collections: "Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez's supercool and sharp collection. Oscar de la Renta was beautiful. We loved Luella Bartley for the juxtaposition of party dresses with riding boots, and Matthew Williamson for his use of color. Also, Marchesa and Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti."
JENNIFER WHEELER, NORDSTROM
Key Trends: "Sleeveless or short-sleeved dresses layered over tops, cozy cardigan coats — the reason they looked so good was because it was so darn cold— hosiery, metallics mixed with black and footwear with chunkier heels and lace-up details."
Key Collections: "Proenza Schouler's was their best collection ever, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein was so gorgeous, also Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta. I loved what Isabel [Toledo] has done with the Anne Klein collection. The coats, dresses and knits were really beautiful. The Michael Kors customer is going to love what he did. He was at his best. We were happy with how Phillip Lim's collection is continuing to develop. The season is much more sophisticated and has a simple refinement to it. It's cleaner, very straightforward but with a romance in all the details."
NICLE FISCHELIS, MACY’S EAST
Key Trends: "I love the idea of activewear infusing daywear. Also, there were knits with substance, not just for sweaters but also jackets, coats and dresses. Shine, particularly white gold."
Key Collections: "Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi, Proenza Schouler, Naum, Calvin Klein Collection, Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Rag & Bone and Doo.Ri."
BARBARA ATKIN, HOLT RENFREW
Key Collections: "Marc Jacobs for swinging the pendulum of fashion into a new direction, away from multilayers and into a long, lean structured silhouette. Proenza Schouler for beautiful, modern sportswear with impeccable details, Vera Wang for pure art. Oscar de la Renta taking over-the-top luxury and embellishment and making it look modern, easy and not pretentious, and Zac Posen for his best collection, with beautiful, sexy cocktail dresses and all-out glamour gowns."
LANCE LAWSON & JIM WETZEL, JAKE IN CHICAGO
Key Trends: "Fur, fur and more fur, the wide leg pant, layering."
Key Collections: "Behnaz Sarafpour and Doo.Ri, who pushed herself forward, giving her signature jersey an edgy glamour."
